Phil Archer had spent what he considered his halcyon years in Haiti under the Duvaliers, a time of peace and quiet; but he would have felt no sense of intimacy without the voodoo drums, the scent of jasmine growing in the gardens of the estates above the hotel, or without the rancid smell of the port that drifted up from the city in the early morning when the direction of the breeze changed.
He danced in Carrefour, spent weekends in cabanas on the beaches of Les Cayes and Macaya, and drove up north to Gonaives and Cap Haitien; but his love affair would never have happened if he and his lover had met across the mountains in the Dominican Republic. Haiti was their go-between, their matrix, their enabler.
They never talked about Haiti, Duvalier, the Tontons, or voodoo. They talked only about other things, things which were varied but were all told within the context of Haiti. Their home towns of New Brighton and Fort George would always be remembered as not Haiti. Not hot, tropical, gingerbread, threatening, ominous, passionate, and violent.
It was not surprising that the Haitian love affair continued only as long as the lovers met in Haiti. Neither one ever suggested that they meet in Boston, New York, or Miami; and when her summer internships were over and his last contract delivered, they knew that their affair was over. Their friendship was uniquely, irrevocably Haitian.
Papa Doc Duvalier and his son were the enablers of the affair. They had assured that Haiti remain an idyll, an irresistible mix of voodoo, Africa, and La France d’Outre-Mer. The Tonton Macoute, henchmen of the Duvaliers, secret police more brutal and threatening than Sevak or Stasi ever were, maintained order, enforced loyalty, and kept the island a secure redoubt of Duvalierism.
Phil and his lover went everywhere without a second thought – dancing in Carrefour, dining at the best restaurants in Petionville and Kenscoff, spending weekends in the cabanas of Cormier Plage and Port-Salut.
The anger, resentment, and civil violence which were to erupt after the Duvaliers were gone were unseen and unspoken. There were only pleasures, the assumption of idyll, the complete exercise of romance. For the foreigners who who stayed at the Olaffson, who dined at Cote Cour, Cote Jardin, who ate lambi creole and bouillabaisse by the port, and who slept with their verandah windows open, Haiti was an idyll.
After the Duvaliers Haiti became a violent, dysfunctional, ungoverned and ungovernable place to be avoided. Its poverty was miasmic, its civil disobedience unruly and dangerous, its prospects nil. The idyll of the Duvaliers was gone forever.
Phil's story was not unusual nor uncommon - inveterate foreign travelers know that there is a both a suspension of moral and ethical codes when one loves abroad, especially in places like Haiti, Palestine, or the Congo, places of disorder, disassembly, and chaos.
Phil knew this first hand, for the gunfire in the streets of Ouagadougou, far from dampening sexual interest, increased it. He could not retrieve anything of what was his stable, sedate, and very prosaic life in Chapel Hill when Fatima Diallo, a Fulani refugee from Eastern Congo, excited as he by the thump of mortars and the crack of assault rifles echoing below, came in successive waves of release, familiarity, and peculiar security.
'We need to go', he said, but she was insistent. She had been born in violence, lived through it, escaped it, and in some perverse way longed for it again. Gunfire, threat, danger - those were her enabling variables that made her and from which she not only could not escape but were now an indispensable part of herself.
When the rebels returned to their barracks and calm returned to the capital, they sat outside in the garden of the hotel Independence and drank Belgian beer while the bats fidgeted and assembled in the trees above, waiting their turn for the swarms of mosquitos in the air after dusk.
Love-making had receded along with the militants. There was no context anymore. They were both just interlopers who happened upon each other, drawn by the allure of chaotic violence, but now, facing the prospect of predictability, had nothing to say.
Perhaps this feeling was not unlike that of Graham Greene who wrote about affairs in the tropics, and for years dallied with suicide as an anodyne to boredom. As a young man he had played Russian roulette, and in later years travelled in the most pestilential, dangerous, and frightful places in Africa.
Mindful and almost desirous of the horrific fate of Mungo Park, British explorer of the late 18th century, who had been taken, sold, bought, and bartered as a slave for most of his journey up the Niger River, Greene traveled unconcerned, awaiting his final encounter.
For Phil travel in unacceptable places which put him in harm's way and the easy accompaniment of complaisant lovers was the same heady mix that Greene had always sought. Return to anything else was incomprehensible; so he accepted assignments that few wanted - to the upper reaches of the Congo River, to the oil delta of Equatorial Guinea and the ISIS-infested Sahelian provinces of Mali.
He became a sexual prowler. The threat of violence was a bother without someone to share it with and there was always a Fatima in the wings.
Which is why his two marriages failed, for each time he returned from God-forsaken places, he was bored, diffident, spare, and indifferent. What woman would put up with that? He took his medicine, but was never cured. Once love, threat, and violence had been injected, there was no refusal. He was addicted, unable to return home, always in need; and easily satisfying it with trips to the African bush, denial was not an option.
There is something good about dictators after all, however personal. If it hadn't been for the Duvaliers, Mobutu, Idi Amin, Paul Kagame and their like, Phil would never have had Fatima and the indissoluble sexual events with her.
Theroux and Greene knew this well, and were the prophets of this amoral transition. Phil did not take inspiration from them, but simply recognized them as brothers. Few appreciate this, but he was a very lucky man.